Nestled around the river Rhine, Düsseldorf is the capital of one of Germany’s industrial heartlands, North Rhine-Westphalia. It has a population of around 640,000, but in terms of area, it is smaller than its neighbour Cologne. Düsseldorf's history dates back to the Roman era, and it has always been a key centre of trade, commerce, and culture
By Nimish Sawant
The city’s charm isn’t just limited to the high-end streets of the Königsallee (popularly called the Kö), but also in the beautifully done-up green spaces, the wide avenues around the Rhine, a well-connected public transport system (even the international airport is within a 20-min radius from the city centre) and avant-garde art. In this article, we will look at a few places worth the hype. Let us begin this journey in the Altstadt (old city).
The Düsseldorf Altstadt is quite tiny compared to other German cities. A lot of it had to be rebuilt as the World War II bombings destroyed over 60% of the city. A large part of the Altstadt is also called ‘the longest bar in the world,’ thanks to more than 250 bars, pubs, and restaurants squeezed into an area under half a square kilometre. The streets to look out for (or avoid if you are not a party person!) are Ratinger Straße, Bolkerstraße, and Kurzestraße. The Düsseldorf Altstadt was also the birthplace of one of Germany’s well-known poets, Heinrich Heine. While his original house was destroyed in a fire, the current Heine Haus is used as a venue for literary events. An Altstadt visit is not complete without visiting the St Lambertus Church, the most prominent of the four Roman-Catholic churches in the Altstadt, thanks to its tall spire.
The Rheinuferpromenade is where most people hang out, especially on the stairs next to the Burgplatz — a square connecting the Altstadt to the Rhine River embankment. Till the 1990s, vehicular traffic flowed along this promenade, but it was thanks to the city’s efforts that by 1997, this stretch was turned into a pedestrian-only zone. You will not just find a string of bars and restaurants along the promenade, but you can also enjoy a meal at one of the boat restaurants that line the shore.
One of the first things that catches your eye as you exit the Düsseldorf main train station is the sculpture of a photographer standing atop an advertising pillar. As you make your way around the Düsseldorf Altstadt, keep your eyes open for more such realistic sculptures and you will find one of a lady with a kid near the Schiffahrt Museum, a kid on his father’s shoulder in the Japanese Quarter, a couple engrossed in a kiss near the Tonhalle, and a couple walking hand in hand near the Rathaus. These artworks, called “Säulenheilige” or the Pillar Saints, add a whimsical touch to often overlooked public spaces. There are ten such statues all over the city, created by the artist Christoph Pöggeler.
Apart from these relatively modern statues, the Altstadt also has some intricately detailed bronze sculptures. One not to be missed is the Stadterhebungsmonument, commemorating Düsseldorf’s city charter in 1288. It shows the Battle of Worringen, the sealing of the city charter, and the relevance of the St Lambertus Church—three key events in Düsseldorf’s history that were memorialized by Bert Gerresheim in 1988, the 700-year celebration of the city. Another popular bronze sculpture, a Düsseldorfer mascot, is the Radschläger, showing two children doing a cartwheel.
After you have had your fill of gawking at the medieval Altstadt neighbourhood, take a walk around the Mediahafen to witness the other side of the architectural spectrum. The formerly abandoned harbour area today hosts around 700 companies and features high-end restaurants and bars in modern buildings. The pièces de résistance are the three wavy buildings designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, with one covered in a shiny steel surface. These silver, white and red buildings came up in 1999 and laid the foundation for the development of the harbour area from dilapidated condition. The other interesting building worth checking out is the Wolkenbügel (cloud iron), a four-story structure that seems to be jutting out of an old harbour building.
The Japanese Quarter is not too far from the Düsseldorf main station and is popularly called ‘Little Tokyo on the Rhine.’ If you are a Japanophile, this is probably the closest you can get to the Land of the Rising Sun in Germany. Düsseldorf is home to the third largest population of Japanese residents in Europe (after London and Paris). After World War II, Japan needed machinery and heavy industry products to rebuild its economy. This prompted many Japanese companies to set up shop in Düsseldorf, an important location around West Germany’s industrial heart - the Ruhr region. The Japanese community grew steadily, and by 1964, the German-Japanese Association was founded, leading to a steady migration of Japanese professionals and their families here. Today, this community is spread throughout the city and around 400 Japanese companies operate in Düsseldorf. While the Japanese Quarter is concentrated on a few blocks along two main streets, you will find a lot more than just Japanese restaurants or ramen shops. The quarter also boasts Japanese stationery shops, ceramic stores, supermarkets, and design shops. The friendship between the two countries is celebrated annually on Japan Day on June 1, attracting Japanese citizens and Japanophiles from all over Germany.
Düsseldorf may come across as a posh city if you hang around the Kö, but there is also a district for those who love alternative cultures. In the Flingern-South district, the Kiefernstraße and Fichtenstraße are the streets where you can check out the city's dynamic street art. This area was slated for demolition in the ‘70s and eventually became a hub of the squatting scene and political resistance in the early ‘80s. The squatters occupied houses on these streets to prevent its transformation into a business district. Eventually, the authorities ended up handing indefinite leases. Thanks to that history, this part of the city still has that rebellious edge. If you like punk music, you must check out the AK47 Club. This is also where a cult German punk band, Die Toten Hosen, found their breakthrough.
About the Artist: Sharvari Dixit Bhalerao
Sharvari hails from Mumbai, India, and has been living in Germany for the last 20 years with her husband and two kids. Sharvari, a nutritionist by profession, runs an Ayurveda startup called Ayurkueche and collaborates with various institutions for seminars, lectures, and cooking courses around Ayurveda. She also teaches Kathak and Bollywood dance at the Taal School of Dance in Düsseldorf to adults and kids. Her group has performed at various events around the Düsseldorf region. Sharvari is also a life member of the Marathi Mitra Mandal, and is part of the committee that organises various community events throughout the year.
